The Summer Residents are Arriving!

With the melting of the last vestiges of winter come the summer’s residents of the caldera. Some are wanted and appreciated, while others are detested. Some provide vital functions to the area, while others are simply nuisances. There are even a few summer residents that are destructive and should be shot!

I know what you are thinking. How bad are his neighbors? I’m talking about the returning wildlife to Island Park.  The first summer residents were the flocks of birds that began emptying our bird feeders daily while waiting for the ground to clear of snow. The flats greeted the returning herd of antelope with its emerging grass, on which they could be seen grazing. The elk and deer began moving to the caldera from the lower elevations where they wintered. Raptors have begun constructing nests on the man-made platforms installed for their convenience.

On the flip side, the seagulls are back. The winter’s congregation of ravens has been overrun with the flocks of seagulls that descend on the county landfill. The dominating gulls also overrun Big Springs, consuming any food offered to the ducks or trout. One has to almost push them out of the way to walk on the bridge walkway and avoid their white, post-modern impressionist graffiti that they have applied to the bridge.

The pelicans have also returned. They are large and somewhat majestic birds but gluttons. Each gorging themselves on hundreds of pounds of trout, conservation has never been their concern. All that matters to them is that they satisfy their insatiable appetite.

Life in the caldera is always in an ebb and flow. The enjoyment of spending time here is watching the transitions occur. Nature always finds its balance but I am not adverse to those who offer a little assistance in maintaining that balance.  I am just saying …..

Heavy Traffic on a Lonely River

Recently a friend who owns a cabin on the bank of the Henry’s Fork, told me about a critter that had been living in his cabin’s attic. The unwelcome guest was leaving a pungent odor that permeated the entire structure, much to the displeasure of summer guests.

My friend, Ron “Beaver” Hay and I took up the challenge to rid the cabin of this annoyance. Our first mission was to scout out the scene, determine the identity of the offender and form a plan of attack.

Ascending the cabin’s attic stairs, we recognized the musky scent of a member of the weasel family. The droppings clustered in the corners confirmed our suspicions. All evidence pointed to a mink or pine marten using the space between the interior walls to gain access to his penthouse. Checking the exterior of the cabin, we found an active burrow under the front porch that provided the animal access under the cabin and allowing him a path up the interior wall.

Beaver and I began our attack. First, we set a trail camera that would monitor the burrow entrance under the porch. Second, we set a live trap in the attic baited with part of a frozen squirrel. Luckily I keep a squirrel in our freezer for such situations, but then … doesn’t everyone?

The first week the trap was empty but we did pick up a couple photos of a mink and a squirrel. 

There were a lot of moose and marten tracks around the cabin as well.

Later we got photos of an otter, a fox and more squirrels.

Last week I checked the trap and found that a large mink had sought to dine on a meal of squirrel in the cabin’s attic. The uninvited guest was removed from the premise without incident.

I was amazed while conducting this task at the variety of wildlife active in the immediate vicinity of the cabin. Some animals looking for shelter in or under the cabin. Other critters were looking to feed on the sheltering animals. Despite the apparent loneliness of the Henry’s Fork in winter, there is a bustling world of animal activity to see if you take the time to look.

Grizzlies Employed in Consumer Testing by The Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center

West Yellowstone’s Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center hosts a cutting edge program dedicated to reducing the conflicts between grizzlies and humans. With the increasing bear population and the swelling number of visitors to Yellowstone Country, it is not surprising that a record 24 grizzly bears were euthanized in 2015. Those of us who live in the area have adapted to the bears foraging for food. Removing tempting food sources minimizes their visits and the resulting damage.

I had the opportunity to spend some time last week with Randy Gravatt, the facility manager of the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center.  The center houses grizzly bears, wolves and birds of prey that would have had to be euthanized either because of injuries or in the case of the bears and wolves; they had become acclimated to humans.

The center has become the premier testing facility for bear-resistant garbage containers and coolers. The tests are very straightforward. Take the container to be tested, put some fish or other smelly, tasty vittles in it, place it in the bear enclosure and release a four hundred pound bear. If the bear cannot open the container within one hour nor make any hole larger than 1.5 inches in diameter, the container passes.  I had the opportunity to witness an actual test. I watched in amazement as the griz jumped up and down on the small cooler like a trampoline, tried to pry the lid off with its massive claws and batted it around like a hockey puck. Eventually it gave up and wandered away looking for an easier meal. This year the center tested 55 manufactures’ products and 60% passed. The initial year that the center began running tests only 10% passed. In September, Randy accepted the North American Conservation Award in Salt Lake City on behalf of the center for their work on bear safe containers.

The facility is an accredited member of the Aquarium/Zoo Association, signifying that the care that the animals receive is top-notch. Animals are not fed by employees but the food is buried around the enclosure and the bears are released to hunt for it. Live trout are stocked in the enclosure’s pond. Their food consists of as much big game road kill as fish and game can locate, as well as fruits and vegetables donated by West Yellowstone’s two grocery stores, local restaurants, Costco in Bozeman and our own Robin’s Roost. The center also accepts scraps (ribs, legs, etc.) from big game harvested by local hunters.

Randy was ecstatic as he pointed out the new construction projects underway. A large river otter/cutthroat trout habitat is slated for completion in the spring of 2018 which will allow for both above and below waterline viewing. The construction of a large black bear enclosure has also begun with an estimated opening date of 2020.

Take the opportunity to enjoy this wonderful facility. It is a gem that the area can be proud of and deserves our support.

Yellowstone Country Safety * Buffalo Selfies *

When visiting Yellowstone Park, don’t crowd the buffalo! It hasn’t gone well for those who have attempted a selfie next to the woolly critters.

Animals are Part of Life in the Caldera

Last Friday I received a late night text from a friend whose rental cabin is near our home. The message read,” How on earth do you catch a squirrel in a cabin? Our renters are staying in the cabin from hell, they came home tonight to destruction in the cabin. We are coming up tomorrow but I am clueless as to what to do. What a nightmare!”

I was still up and responded that I had a couple of live traps and would be more than happy to set them for her. She replied a short time later that the bushy-tailed perpetrator could not be found and that it would wait until tomorrow. In the morning I dropped in on her renters and scouted out the situation. It appeared that the rodent had found his way out on his own but I set a trap to be safe. The vacationers seemed to have taken the incident in stride, a colorful incident that added to their adventure.

Living in the caldera is about coexisting with all its inhabitants. Here we are the minority, the visitors. It is impossible to control the wildlife’s comings and goings. One tries to minimize any negative interactions but they will happen. One simply smiles and accepts that our neighbors occasionally drop in and make themselves at home.

A few years ago a Forest Service employee told me that a summer renter called to advise that one of “their” moose had gotten out and was in the renter’s yard. The caller’s expectation was that there was some animal control person who would respond to collect the moose and return it to its pen.  Some consider the four-legged residents a nuisance when they appear unexpectedly. To the residents of Island Park, it is the unexpected encounters that bring the most joy. Being within an animal’s intimate environment and watching its unguarded behavior is always a real treat! Enjoy Yellowstone Country for what it is. It is wonderful!

I never did catch that squirrel.

Yellowstone Country Safety * A Caldera full of Conservationists *

The Island Park Caldera has over 300 volunteer conservationists. The residents are some of the best stewards of the environment that I have ever met!

Yellowstone Country Safety * The Bears are Awake *

Bears are responding to early warm temperatures by leaving their dens. Be cautious while hiking/snowshoeing and avoid leaving food sources outside of your cabin. 

Life and Death Struggle on Hwy 20

Friday night, Greg Walker and his family were driving up Ashton Hill toward Island Park. As they reached the midpoint of the mountain climb, through a light fog, Greg saw a large elk standing in the roadway 200 yards ahead. He slowed as he approached the elk, which remained on the deserted highway.

The bull was hopping into the air like a bronc attempting to throw a cowboy after it leaves the chute. His first thought was that it may have been hit by a vehicle. He continued to assess the situation as he drove within 50 yards of the erratic elk. There appeared to be an enormous flap of skin dangling from the animal’s chest. Greg’s concern for the injured elk changed to astonishment as the animal hopped closer to his vehicle. The large chest injury turned out to be an enormous mountain lion clinging under the bull’s neck with all four paws.

As the panic-stricken animal neared the Walker’s car, Greg put the vehicle in reverse fearing that he would end up with an elk/lion hood ornament. Just as it appeared that a collision was inevitable, the mountain lion released his grip. The lion ran west across the road, up the hillside and vanished. The relieved bull elk fled in the opposite direction, up the east side of the pass and into the night.

Greg said that after the encounter, he and Lesli wished that they had captured it on video but had been spellbound in the moment.

Mother Nature occasionally withdraws her veil and reveals amazing things to those who spend time in Island Park.

Yellowstone Country Safety * Report Suspicious Activity to Fish and Game *

Please report any suspicious hunting activity to Idaho Fish and Game @ 208-525-7290 or our resident officer, Chris Johnson. Thanks

Yellowstone Country Safety * Trail Cam *

A note to the bow hunters who passed my trail camera up a draw along Stamp Meadows Road: you pushed a nice group of elk past the camera. They were 20 minutes ahead of you! 

Well, That Was Quick!

Apparently summer had somewhere else to be this year because it sure left in a hurry. Weather can change dramatically in the mountains. It is the last week of the summer tourist season and preparations for winter will begin shortly. Summer cabins will be winterized shutters installed, summer toys put away and many will migrate to a more hospitable climate.

For those who are leaving after this week or have vacationed in Island Park this summer, I would like to extend a “thank you for coming” from the area businesses. A lot of effort and planning by the residents goes into serving visitors. Local residents enjoy seeing families having special experiences while staying here and consider it a privilege to help make those memories happen.

For those of us who are left behind, life is about to get interesting. 

The season of hobbies that are pursued in the isolation of the mountains is almost upon us.

For me the best month in Island Park is right around the corner. September is bow hunting season, the changing colors of the leaves, the bugle of the bull elk and the crisp fall air. There is nothing more beautiful or majestic than fall in Yellowstone Country. (I’d better stop or I’ll start telling hunting stories!)

So to the summer visitors or residents of Island Park, have a safe and productive winter. May your families be protected and blessed and may you return to us next year.

Best Wishes,

Mike and Sheri Bogden

Driving in the Caldera

Summer driving in the Island Park Caldera presents its special set of challenges. The road construction at both ends of Highway 20 greets visitors to the area. Compressed lanes and traffic delays require caution and patience.

Highway 20 is a three lane road, two lanes in one direction and one in the reverse. The center lane’s assigned direction alternates depending on terrain. With the heavy summer traffic, impatient drivers use the center lane as a passing lane, even if it is designated for traffic traveling in the opposite direction and it is a no passing zone. Travel in the right lane as much as possible. Two vehicles driving at speeds of 65 mph at each other leave no time to react if you are taken by surprise.

The wildlife presents an additional danger to the motorist. When they make a dash across the highway pursuing their natural migration paths, there may be little chance to avoid a collision at posted speeds. Reduce your speed as you pass though the more heavily forested areas of the caldera. A collision with a big moose, deer or elk at highway speeds will total your car and may hospitalize you as well. The reduced visibility of night makes the animals more difficult to see and makes them feel more secure while crossing the roadways. This makes dusk and dark the most dangerous time for animal/vehicle collisions.

If all these hazards weren’t enough, there are the ATVs that cross the roadways and parking lots in Island Park. Running the gauntlet of recreational cross traffic requires extreme attention, especially in the commercial areas. ATV riders’ enthusiasm to get to or from their trail ride interferes with their survival instincts. The speed limit of 45 mph is enforced by local law enforcement in these areas.

Using caution and patience while driving in the Island Park Caldera will help you have a safe and enjoyable visit.

Reconnecting with the Pioneers

With Pioneer Day/ Days of 47 being celebrated throughout the intermountain area this week, many travel to Island Park to enjoy the extended weekend. It isn’t difficult to understand why. Island Park’s environment harkens back to the days of the pioneers. The Lodgepole pine forest and the volcanic formations are unaltered from the days of the earliest trappers.

The forest environment is ideal for extended families to gather together in a reunion of shared love and heritage. The serenity allows for sincere conversations and reminiscing. Many find that a one-time reunion morphs into an annual event. The smell of a pine log campfire and the unobstructed night-time view of the heavens is calming, adding prospective to life in these complicated times.

Moose graze between small clusters of rustic log cabins. A night heron dives into the Henry’s Fork and ascends clutching a cutthroat trout. A glimpse of an elk standing behind the forest tree line or a herd of pronghorn grazing on the meadows of the Flat are all reminders of the country in an earlier time. Even the necessary precautions of bear spray and running a clean camp to avoid grizzly encounters are concerns shared by our ancestors.

With all the emphasis on electronics and twenty-four hour news cycles, Island Park allows us to reconnect with ourselves and contemplate life’s priorities. For all but a few hardy souls, Yellowstone Country is a short vacation from life’s grind. For our ancestors, this WAS their life. Take a few minutes this week to give thanks for those who came before us. They lived difficult lives so that our lives could be better.

Living with the Wildlife

Sheri recently pointed out a YouTube video that was filmed in Wyoming. A visiting snowmobiler was driving on a trail when he came upon a bull moose blocking his path. He began revving his engine and aggressively inching upon the moose in an attempt to force him off the trail. The agitated animal did not flee but charged the snowmobile. As the bull backed off after the first charge, the snowmobiler pulled a pistol and emptied the clip into the animal. He drove past the carcass proudly as he continued his ride.

Spending time in mountain country requires one to learn how to live with the wildlife. Everyone enjoys the site of a moose grazing in the river or a bear crossing a mountain meadow but the wildlife never remain in their designated sites. River otters burrow under porches, moose crop trees in yards until they are unrecognizable and grizzlies scour home sites for any food or garbage left out.

To avoid conflicts between yourself and the wildlife you study their basic habits. You can avoid actions that draw them into a confrontation.

Take bears for example; there are two ways to run into bear problems: baiting or surprising them. If you leave food out, bears will find it. Garbage, bird feeders, a dead fish or a full cooler will all entice bears into a visit. Walking on mountain trails or especially through thick vegetation presents the opportunity to surprise a grizzly. A surprised bear will likely charge to defend his space. Walking cautiously through the mountains and avoiding areas like willows where your vision is severely obstructed always makes sense.

Avoid encroaching on wildlife with young. All new mothers are aggressive. Any animal that seems upset by your presence is telling you to back off. Quickly retreat while not turning away.

Be cautious in the mountains and you will have a great visit in Yellowstone Country.

Yellowstone Country Safety * Yard Raiders *

Grizzly bears are already raiding yards of those who leave coolers or garbage outside. Secure your food and garbage.

Yellowstone Country Safety * Vole Gift *

Aspen caught a vole and left her trophy on the doorstep. Way to go dog! One down but you have many tags to fill. 

Easter Weekend and Yellowstone Park

A car commercial that portrayed the Muppets driving to Old Faithful aired recently. Sheri pointed out that it had been better than half a year since we had driven into the Park.  Easter weekend seemed like the appropriate time to visit Yellowstone Park and observe the resurrection of the forest from its winter slumber.  Saturday was sunny and warm, just perfect. The roads were clear as we drove to Madison Junction. Passing a few elk road side, it was nice not to deal with the multitude of vehicles stopped to observe the animals during the summer season. Turning south towards the geyser basin, we saw several bison as they grazed on the newly sprouting grass and basking in the warmth of the sun.

We made the pilgrimage to Old Faithful and sat with the sparse crowd and enjoyed the eruption. That done, it was time for lunch! I had prepared some tuna and thrown it in cooler along with cans of Diet Coke for me and Diet Pepsi for Sheri (Who says that mixed marriages don’t work?). Sheri brought the chips but someone forgot to pack the bread. I am sure it was me, just ask my wife.  We hit up the Snow Lodge store and picked up a four dollar sleeve of Ritz Crackers.

Satisfying our hunger with impromptu finger food, we headed north to Gibbon Falls. Before reaching the falls, we passed a nice herd of bison grazing on a mountainside. One new calf was already visible and several cows were waiting for the relief that comes with calving. The water thundering down the falls was brown with the sediment of the spring runoff.

It was nice being in the park again but the daylight was coming to an end. It was time to get back to the cabin. We are blessed with having such a beautiful slice of nature so close.

By the way, the commercial shows a rock wall between Old Faithful and the car. There is no rock wall around the geyser. They shot the car and rock wall in studio, green screening in Old Faithful. The park is much more enjoyable if you really go there.

You can Beet Our Roads

Since the snows are not yet over, I thought that a follow-up article on the use of road salt on US 20 would be appropriate.

The severe snow falls this year in the eastern half of the US created a shortage in road salt and alternatives were sought. One of the alternatives to a salt solution is a mixture of brine (salt water) and sugar beet juice.

“In Indiana, K-Tech Specialty Coatings has been distributing “Beet Heet,” a sugar beet molasses-based product that increases rock salt’s ice melting capacity when the two are mixed. The mixture helps rock salt melt ice below its 15-degree limit, according to Beet Heet distributors, and helps municipalities melt larger amounts of ice and clean up snow more quickly.”

“This year about 175 municipal agencies, mostly in the Midwest, are using the product. Butler County in Pennsylvania has been experimenting with the solution as part of a department or transportation research project into de-icing option, a PennDot official told TIME.” http://time.com/5761/salt-shortage-triggers-beet-juice-cheese-brine-alternatives/

The sugar beet juice is a natural byproduct of beet processing. The sugar beet juice reportedly reduces the amount of salt necessary in solution to be effective. The beet-brine also reportedly coats and seals the pavement, reducing the number of applications necessary to maintain the roads. This mixture reduces salt costs, is less destructive to the asphalt and is less corrosive to vehicles.

Eastern Idaho is known for raising sugar beets. The use of beet juice to maintain Idaho highway safety in winter is a natural fit and there is no more appropriate location than Island Park.  This reduction in salt use will create less salt runoff, reducing the possibility of increasing salinity of our rivers. It will be less harmful to plant life and hopefully, less of an attractant for wildlife.

Any action that makes economic sense, has less of an impact on the environment and utilizes local waste products is a win for all involved. The best public policy is one where there is no loser.

This may be one of those opportunities.

Yellowstone Country Safety * Curious Cubs *

Two grizzly cubs have been seen recently around Mack’s Inn. Not sure if these are the orphan cubs from a recent shooting or if the sow is nearby. Keep a respectful distance.

Too Good To Be True

I moved to Pocatello, Idaho in 1977. It was my first summer in Idaho and I decided to try my hand at fishing. I hadn’t done any scouting but I knew of the American Falls dam and decided to fish below it. Armed with my trusty rod and a half dozen spinners, I headed for the Snake River.

I crossed the dam and headed down the North side of the Snake. Noticing a couple of inviting ponds, I decided to give them a try. Parking on the road and hopping a small fence, I walked into the ponds. With my first cast I had a strike and reeled in a 2 foot trout. I put it on a stringer and cast again. Wham, I scored a second strike and another nice trout. I was more than suspicious. I am neither that lucky nor that good of a fisherman. I released both fish unharmed and hiked out along the river.

It didn’t take long to come upon a sign notifying the public that I was in a State of Idaho fish hatchery.

I didn’t study the area before I began scouting and I made a horrible mistake.  Fortunately I did no damage before recognizing my blunder and I learned an important lesson.

Fast forward to a recent incident at Mack’s Inn. An out-of-state hunter spotted a magnificent bull moose in the headwaters of the Henry’s Fork. He possesses a moose tag and this one is just standing there, so close to the road. He is surprised that moose hunting in Idaho is so easy. It is his lucky day. He takes the shot and drops the moose. Unfortunately, there is no hunting of moose between North and South Big Springs Loop according to the regulations.

Residents and visitors alike have enjoyed seeing that bull wading in the river. I had admiringly posted video of that bull (Big Moose, No Tag) on my YouTube channel over one year ago. While I would love to fill a moose tag with such a bull, I was glad that the bull stayed within the safe zone where he could be enjoyed by so many.

The area was not safe from someone who didn’t bother to study the regulations however. A concerned resident called Fish and Game and the hunter was apprehended. The hunter has a court date, but that doesn’t help much.