Our New Neighbors

Yellowstone Country Weather

Three months ago I was contacted through my YouTube channel by Becca from Chicago. She was anticipating her first visit to Yellowstone Country this Memorial Day week. Her message was not unlike a child’s letter to Santa, pleading for help in making the event successful. She had so many questions. What could she expect, what kind of gear should she bring and where should she visit.

Each month she contacted me with additional questions. Finally last week her post simply read “This is awesome. 6 more sleeps till Yellowstone! I'm so excited for a new adventure.” Saturday I replied to her post. “Bring warm clothes and rain gear. We have four inches of snow and it will probably rain most of Memorial Day weekend.”

During the past two weeks, summer cabins have been opened at a brisk pace. Contractors are being pressured to complete projects in time for the cabin owners’ opening summer holiday. The procession of ATVs being trailered up Ashton Hill is reminiscent of the animals arriving two-by-two as they entered Noah’s Ark.  Yellowstone Country weather is neither predictable nor uneventful. The challenge of the high country is adapting to whatever Mother Nature throws one’s way and discovering enjoyment in the challenge.

The magic of Island Park and Yellowstone Country can be found by immersing one’s self in the beauty of the moment. It may be in a group of swans whose wings beat the river as they take flight. That special moment may occur while viewing a beautiful cloud formation reflecting the light of a setting sun as it drops behind a veil of pines or a pair of moose grazing knee-deep in a creek. The weather adds background to an already beautiful scene, a virtual painting to be hung in the gallery of your mind’s eye. Remarkable memories are not realized from uneventful trips.

Enjoy all that Yellowstone Country has to offer and remember to be safe.

The Snow Has Arrived!

A little more than a week ago employees of local businesses felt like Maytag repairmen. I swear that I heard an echo when I entered a store and said “Hi” to a clerk. A couple of feet of snow later, things are hoppin’ in the caldera. I believe I saw the Lodgepoles sway from a collective sigh of relief as merchants were suddenly inundated with snowmobile enthusiasts.

Crowds of sleds surround gas pumps in clusters. Adults and kids alike are completely outfitted in the latest snowmobile apparel. The inside of the stores looks more like a Star Wars convention where everyone decided to wear their Darth Vader costume. Stocking up on munchies, the procession returns to the pumps. Firing up the sleds, their pending excursion is confirmed and off they go in single file. Their adventure is on.

What must be acknowledged is their joy as they tour the Island Park Caldera that is blanketed in white. For many, this is an annual opportunity, for some it is a weekly event and for others it is a once in a lifetime experience. It is difficult to tell from their enthusiasm which visitors cherish the experience more.

Island Park offers much of the scenery available in Yellowstone Park without the heavy hand of the Park Service. It is truly a blessing to have this corner of Yellowstone Country available to tour on snowmobiles. Residents of the caldera enjoy hosting visitors who appreciate what we have been blessed with.

Remember to be safe while operating your machines. Watch out for traffic when crossing roads. Don’t allow your speed to exceed your control of the sled. We want you to return home safely, with great memories of your visit.

Well, That Was Wet!

The weekend began with such promise. Vendors set up their tents near the IP Lodge and Buffalo Run for the antique shows. ATVs were ready to rent, restaurants were stocked with food and the fly shops were ready to provide the hook that mimicked the current hatch. 

Boats, canoes and staff stood at the ready to give visitors the opportunity to float the river. I was ready for the first days of the bow hunt. Everything was in place.

What is the fastest way to bring a holiday weekend to an abrupt halt? Host a Monsoon!

I did a little bit of hunting Saturday evening east of Last Chance. The weather was threatening but huntable. As it got dark I drove home northbound on Hwy 20 and it was apparent that the north end of the caldera received more rain than I had experienced. There was a solid string of vehicle headlights fleeing south off the mountain. My heart was heavy for those who worked so hard to prepare for Labor Day weekend visitors and for those who cut their vacation short.

The antique shows packed up and left before their inventory was damaged and most of the staff at Mack’s Inn boat rental went home for the season early. The weather affected most other merchants in the same negative way.

I am not saying that the rain was of biblical proportions but I did hear tales of animals gathering two by two and searching for available boats at Henry’s Lake! 

Life in Island Park is seldom predictable but is always beautiful. 

Well, That Was Quick!

Apparently summer had somewhere else to be this year because it sure left in a hurry. Weather can change dramatically in the mountains. It is the last week of the summer tourist season and preparations for winter will begin shortly. Summer cabins will be winterized shutters installed, summer toys put away and many will migrate to a more hospitable climate.

For those who are leaving after this week or have vacationed in Island Park this summer, I would like to extend a “thank you for coming” from the area businesses. A lot of effort and planning by the residents goes into serving visitors. Local residents enjoy seeing families having special experiences while staying here and consider it a privilege to help make those memories happen.

For those of us who are left behind, life is about to get interesting. 

The season of hobbies that are pursued in the isolation of the mountains is almost upon us.

For me the best month in Island Park is right around the corner. September is bow hunting season, the changing colors of the leaves, the bugle of the bull elk and the crisp fall air. There is nothing more beautiful or majestic than fall in Yellowstone Country. (I’d better stop or I’ll start telling hunting stories!)

So to the summer visitors or residents of Island Park, have a safe and productive winter. May your families be protected and blessed and may you return to us next year.

Best Wishes,

Mike and Sheri Bogden

Medical Conditions and the Vacation

Vacations provide an opportunity to create a temporary distance from life’s stresses and recharge the batteries. Island Park provides a great atmosphere to decompress. Vacationing does not include neglecting your health issues. Many visitors this summer have experienced health problems requiring emergency medical attention.

Medical conditions stay with you and must be managed. It is easy to postpone personal care when you are engaged in enjoyable activities. While on a four-wheeler ride through the pine forest, checking your blood sugar may be forgotten. Gathering the family together for a float down the Henry’s Fork seems much more important than giving attention to a few slight chest pains.

Inattention to your health details can turn your vacation into a personal and family crisis. So while you are enjoying Island Park and leaving your world behind, be proactive with your medical conditions.

1.           Take your medication on time. Carry it with you along with a bottle of water, a syringe or whatever device necessary to administer your meds.
2.      Notify others in your party of any personal medical conditions, including food allergies.
3.            Instruct others in your party how to recognize the symptoms and respond if your medical condition should arise.
4.      For serious existing conditions, wear a medical alert pendant or bracelet.
5.      Do not dismiss early warning symptoms because it is inconvenient. A visit to the Island Park’s Clinic (next to Pond’s Lodge) is much more convenient than a helicopter flight to the hospital in Idaho Falls.

Be safe and have a great vacation in Yellowstone Country!

Driving in the Caldera

Summer driving in the Island Park Caldera presents its special set of challenges. The road construction at both ends of Highway 20 greets visitors to the area. Compressed lanes and traffic delays require caution and patience.

Highway 20 is a three lane road, two lanes in one direction and one in the reverse. The center lane’s assigned direction alternates depending on terrain. With the heavy summer traffic, impatient drivers use the center lane as a passing lane, even if it is designated for traffic traveling in the opposite direction and it is a no passing zone. Travel in the right lane as much as possible. Two vehicles driving at speeds of 65 mph at each other leave no time to react if you are taken by surprise.

The wildlife presents an additional danger to the motorist. When they make a dash across the highway pursuing their natural migration paths, there may be little chance to avoid a collision at posted speeds. Reduce your speed as you pass though the more heavily forested areas of the caldera. A collision with a big moose, deer or elk at highway speeds will total your car and may hospitalize you as well. The reduced visibility of night makes the animals more difficult to see and makes them feel more secure while crossing the roadways. This makes dusk and dark the most dangerous time for animal/vehicle collisions.

If all these hazards weren’t enough, there are the ATVs that cross the roadways and parking lots in Island Park. Running the gauntlet of recreational cross traffic requires extreme attention, especially in the commercial areas. ATV riders’ enthusiasm to get to or from their trail ride interferes with their survival instincts. The speed limit of 45 mph is enforced by local law enforcement in these areas.

Using caution and patience while driving in the Island Park Caldera will help you have a safe and enjoyable visit.

Reconnecting with the Pioneers

With Pioneer Day/ Days of 47 being celebrated throughout the intermountain area this week, many travel to Island Park to enjoy the extended weekend. It isn’t difficult to understand why. Island Park’s environment harkens back to the days of the pioneers. The Lodgepole pine forest and the volcanic formations are unaltered from the days of the earliest trappers.

The forest environment is ideal for extended families to gather together in a reunion of shared love and heritage. The serenity allows for sincere conversations and reminiscing. Many find that a one-time reunion morphs into an annual event. The smell of a pine log campfire and the unobstructed night-time view of the heavens is calming, adding prospective to life in these complicated times.

Moose graze between small clusters of rustic log cabins. A night heron dives into the Henry’s Fork and ascends clutching a cutthroat trout. A glimpse of an elk standing behind the forest tree line or a herd of pronghorn grazing on the meadows of the Flat are all reminders of the country in an earlier time. Even the necessary precautions of bear spray and running a clean camp to avoid grizzly encounters are concerns shared by our ancestors.

With all the emphasis on electronics and twenty-four hour news cycles, Island Park allows us to reconnect with ourselves and contemplate life’s priorities. For all but a few hardy souls, Yellowstone Country is a short vacation from life’s grind. For our ancestors, this WAS their life. Take a few minutes this week to give thanks for those who came before us. They lived difficult lives so that our lives could be better.

A Busy Weekend in Island Park

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Friday began a busy weekend for Island Park. I dropped in to the Henry’s Fork Days at Last Chance.  An enormous tent had been erected at the sportsman’s access. Inside, a group of dedicated sportsmen were attending the seminar within. Alex Whittier of Fish and Game was manning a Bear Aware booth nearby and a couple of diehard fishermen were fighting the 30 mph winds with downwind casts.

Saturday morning Sheri and I 

attended the Kid’s Fishing Day at Mill Pond. The cloudy morning went unnoticed as a large group of youngsters assisted by attentive parents, cast their lines into the pond. It didn’t take long before the trout began feeding on the worm-laden hooks. 

Excited kids took their trophies to the Fish and Game table where they were allowed to choose a new fishing pole from a large selection donated by local merchants.  The well-stocked pond produced a large number of happy young fishermen.

Dropping in on the Henry’s Fork Foundation festivities, preparations 
were being made for the big dinner under the tent. The calmer weather allowed fly fishermen to wade into the river and present their hand-tied offerings to the native cutthroats.

The next stop was Mesa Falls. The parking fee was waived and guides were available for tours of the geology and flora of the area. Smokey the Bear was greeting visitors at the information center and passing out gifts to the kids. 

Alex and the bear trailer had followed us from the Mill Pond to Mesa Falls where he continued to spread the gospel of being bear aware.

Finally we made our way down to the falls. A short walk on an easy trail led us to the majestic Mesa Falls. The swollen river crashing over the falls was accented by the mist fed green moss growing up the sides of the volcanic canyon.

There are so many opportunities to enjoy nature’s gifts in Island Park and the weekend pointed a few of those opportunities out with the help of many devoted residents. Thank you.

Power Outage

Sunday morning opened with beautiful Memorial Weekend weather. The serenity of the mountains had not yet been interrupted by the sound of four wheelers. As the clock approached 9 am, a failure in Idaho Falls interrupted the grid for the entire mountain from Ashton Hill to West Yellowstone.

The merchants were most immediately affected. With cash registers and gas pumps down, commerce came to a screeching halt.  Doug at Robin’s Roost calmly sat in a booth at the back of the store while assuring customers that the electricity would be reestablished soon as he checked for power company updates.

Chad at Mack’s Inn was beginning the second operational day of his new ice cream store when he was hit with no power, hence no refrigeration.  Making the best of the situation, he enthusiastically proclaimed all ice cream 50% off. Using ice from the nearby convenience store, the ice cream survived the crisis. Chad did mention that he was considering a backup generator.

I appreciated the calmness with which the merchants dealt with the power crisis which had interrupted their first busy retail weekend of the season. They reminded me of a duck on a pond. No matter fast a duck franticly paddles, above the surface he appears calm.

Returning to the cabin, I was faced with the one area of power loss that could not be ignored. Wells do not supply water when there is no power to the pumps. All of Island Park is on well water. Showers, dishes and laundry can wait but toilets, not so much! Grabbing a couple of 5 gallon buckets, I headed down to the river to fill them. Other bucket toting residents made the same pilgrimage. Ten gallons of water was enough to keep the toilet tank full until the power was restored.

The power was restored in stages beginning around noon. It was after 3:00pm before it was restored at Mack’s Inn.

Fireworks in Island Park

It was a dark, drizzly Fourth of July night when the crack of fireworks summoned me from our cabin. I was shocked to see that someone was lighting aerial fireworks through the trees of a nearby cabin. 

While the media focus on the danger of a Yellowstone super volcano eruption, the most likely source danger for the area is from a forest fire. A large fire could devastate entire communities in Island Park.

I made some recent inquiries regarding Fremont County fireworks laws. I found that there are none on the books. There are Federal laws prohibiting fireworks in national forests but those laws are not enforceable by county or state law enforcement. I suggested to both the county commissioners and Sheriff Len Humphries that specific limitations on fireworks for the Island Park area be considered.

The case could be made that use of personal fireworks in Island Park is not worth the possibility of a devastating fire. While residents take the appropriate steps to be safe, vacationers may not be as cautious.

With the pending arrival of the summer visitors to Island Park, residents are busy preparing for the extra company. The swelling population always raises concerns for the safety of vacationers and residents alike. Proactive steps allow everyone to have a great summer in one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Sled Safety

Island Park provides the opportunity for to vacationers to ride their snowmobiles. Some operate sleds without the caution that they employ when driving a car, considering them toys. Lack of caution can have devastating consequences. This past weekend a pair of snowmobiles collided near South Big Springs Loop, injuring two and requiring hospitalization.

Here are a few ideas that will help you have a safe experience:

1.  Keep to the right side of the trail.

2.  Don’t out-drive your vision. Slow down if you cannot see one minute ahead.

3.  Drive cautiously in unfamiliar areas, a drift may hide a boulder or a snow-covered crust may disguise a streambed.

4.  Provide proper instruction and supervision to minors operating sleds.

5.  Place your cell phone in a Ziploc to avoid moisture damage. If cell service is negligible, send a text. It will go through with almost no bars.

6.  Pack a small go-bag (day pack) to take when you are riding in farther than you can walk out in two hours. Include water, energy bars, a lighter and some newspaper in a Ziploc, a compass, flashlight, knife, a folding saw, rope, a backcountry shovel and some toilet paper.

Preparing for the unexpected and using caution will help you have an enjoyable experience in Yellowstone country.

Yellowstone Country Safety * Serenity *

Now that tourist season is over, don’t vapor lock by the sudden arrival of serenity.

Yellowstone Country Safety * Patience *

Be patient with each other. A lot of people are vacationing this time of year in Yellowstone country.  It is hot. Wait for traffic to clear before pulling out and drive slowly in residential areas. Be kind to the clerks and waitresses while they contend with the increase in customers. You will have a great Island park experience if you take life slowly.

Yellowstone Country Safety * ATV Safety *

Please drive your car/truck cautiously on Island Park’s roads. ATV operators may be inexperienced and unpredictable. And to ATV drivers, you will be on the short end of the stick in any collision with a car or truck, regardless of fault.

Yellowstone Country Safety * Moose Safety *

The female moose have their calves in tow. Do not approach them. Cow moose are very aggressive if they perceive any threats to their young.

Island Park, not Island Zoo!

Residents of Island Park have adapted to the continuous presence of diverse wildlife. They take down the bird feeders in the spring and cautiously store garbage indoors to avoid attracting bears. They drive slower through the forest and give wild animals a wide berth when on foot. We forget that many people have never experienced nature as they do when they visit the Yellowstone ecosystem, including Island Park.

Here is a sample of last week’s visitor inquiries regarding the wildlife. A couple walked into a local business and asked the owner “When do they let the animals out?” Another visitor asked a convenience store clerk “When do the elk turn into moose?” A woman who was renting a cabin called Fish and Game to inform them that one of their moose had escaped and was in her yard. She requested that they come and get it.

Vacationers may be accustomed to visiting a park to see animals at the city zoo. Arriving in Island Park, they may assume that they have entered an actual park with an included zoo, fences camouflaged by the thick forest. The concept of large, potentially dangerous animals being allowed to wander throughout the area is foreign to most. The wildlife in the greater Yellowstone ecosystem was here first and we are visitors in their realm.

Be cautious, be attentive and marvel at the wildlife that freely inhabits the area. 

Yellowstone Country Safety * Secure Your Valuables *

Secure your valuables. Lock your trailer or cabin when taking off for an adventure. When leaving your tent camp site, store valuable items in the locked cab of your vehicle.  

Camping in Yellowstone Country

Idaho is blessed with an immense amount of public land. Those of us who spend our fall in elk camp experience camping off the beaten path. Taking our families to similar spots can be a wonderful adventure.

I prefer tents when camping because they allow me to savor my surroundings and hear the sounds of the outdoors. During a September bow hunt, I had settled into bed about midnight. Suddenly a bull elk started bugling from a ravine 40 yards from my camp. I listened to that elk scream for two and a half hours as I drifted in and out of sleep. It was great!

Purchasing a tent requires that you evaluate a tent before you make your purchase.  The design of a tent is fundamental in making your selection because it dictates the ease of setting it up, its size and strength. There are three basic types: 1) the dome tent; 2) the cabin tent; 3) the wall tent.                                                                      

I have both a wall and a dome tent. I use the dome tent for   trips shorter than a week and the wall tent for a week or more. Visit several outlets and investigate your choices. Material and construction are important considerations. Tents are made from nylon or cotton. Cotton breaths, stays cool in summer, holds in heat better in winter but is expensive and heavy. I love my 12 foot by 29 foot wall tent but with poles, it weights 275 lbs and takes two hours to erect. Synthetic fabrics are light, durable and cheaper. A high quality dome tent weights less than 35 lbs. and takes 20 minutes to erect. Beware of inferior materials and designs. If a tent claims to sleep four but folds to the size of Sunday’s paper, the material is too thin. If the zipper on the door is finer than the one on your wife’s slacks, it will not last. Tent poles that could double as a trout rod won’t withstand a storm. When a manufacturer advertises a 4 man tent; it accommodates four people who do not mind spooning. Purchase a tent advertised to sleep twice as many people as you intend to accommodate unless you are backpacking.

Where you set up the tent determines the quality of your camping experience. Just like the rules for a successful business, location, location, location is crucial! When searching for a site, consider the following: Always allow for a retreat in the event of bad weather. Roads that are so deeply rutted that you can barely drive into your camp spot in dry weather may not be passable after a cloudburst. Never camp at the base of a ravine or on low ground near a stream or river. Rain or snow can change your world in a hurry. Think ahead. Look for the natural windbreaks: hills, mountains or trees. Pay attention to the wind patterns and check the weather forecasts. Face your tent door downwind. Consider the grade when erecting your tent. Flat ground is essential. If there is a slope, position your bed so your feet are downhill. Clear the rocks, sticks and stumps from the ground before erecting your tent. Avoid still or slow moving water? Nothing ruins a camping trip like getting consumed by mosquitoes!

The bed you choose can determine the length and frequency of your camping trips. Long, uncomfortable nights make for short trips. Foam pads are the simplest and the least costly. You can also get self-inflating pads which are foam pads encapsulated in an airtight synthetic cover.

A cot does get you off the ground but I have never found them comfortable without additional padding.

The inflatable mattress is a third alternative. They are available in various sizes. I prefer a queen inflatable mattress on an expanding frame. An inexpensive battery powered pump can air up the mattress in five minutes. Before you go camping, check for leaks because deflated mattresses are not comfortable! Whether you are using a cot or an air mattress, remember that your sleeping bag compresses beneath you. Use a blanket, an extra sleeping bag or a foam pad between your bag and the air mattress on cold nights.

Heat can be wood or propane. If your heat is a campfire, check with the Forest Service and make sure that open fires are permitted. Pack a water bucket and a shovel for fire control. I take a heater if the nightly temperature is forecast to fall below 40 degrees. My wall tent has a large cylinder stove that burns for eight hours. When using a smaller tent, Mr. Heater Buddy runs on propane and works great. I don’t run it all night but firing it up at 6:00 am sure makes it easier to climb out of the sack. Make sure that your heater is designed for inside use, your tent is properly ventilated and you keep objects at a safe distance.

Water is an essential provision to camp. Carry in your water.  If I am camping within ten miles of a source, I’ll fill my 5 gallon water jugs when I arrive. Collapsible water containers are very space efficient.

Cooking great food keeps everyone happy and stove selection is important. I judge a stove by how fast it heats up a gallon of water, the quality of the flame controls and the durability of the unit.  I have been cooking on my Camp Chef Professional model GB 90P stove since I was a scoutmaster more than 20 years ago and have never been disappointed. The 3 burners allow me to keep water hot while using a large griddle to cook up a full breakfast of eggs, hash browns and bacon.

Lighting is an important equipment choice before camping. Propane lanterns are currently the brightest but have a flame and should not be used in small or medium tents. Battery powered fluorescents are better for interior lighting but utilize a large number of batteries. LED’s are the latest and most efficient development in lighting.

Toilet facilities are a happy addition to a camp. I prefer a portable flushing chemical toilet. They are compact and make it easier to coax my wife into a camping trip. An inexpensive toilet shelter completes the facility.

Showers make for a pleasant olfactory experience. Solar shower bags, propane water heaters or heating water and dumping it on your head all work. I have found that Coleman’s Hot Water on Demand is efficient and adjustable. Dome-style shower stalls are available. They can be quite spacious and can double as a toilet shelter.

Enjoying Idaho’s wild spaces can be a great family pursuit. Searching for a camping spot off the beaten path is challenging and fun. It is a type of hunting that can be enjoyed by the entire family and a successful find can result in enjoyable memories for years to come. Good camping!

Watch Out for the Wildlife!

Two weeks ago, my Yellowstone Country Safety tip was “Drive cautiously through the forest. Wildlife can quickly emerge from the trees to cross the highway. A moose hit by a vehicle can crash through the windshield and end up in your lap!”

The same day the paper was distributed containing that tip, a Nissan Rogue compact SUV hit a moose on Hwy 20 at Chick Creek. Four foreign tourists were southbound when a bull moose crossed the highway in front of them. The brakes were not applied as they struck the moose at approximately 65 miles per hour. Part of the moose entered the vehicle through the windshield, striking all occupants. The vehicle continued for about 200 yards sheering off trees, before coming to rest in an aspen grove. All four occupants were hospitalized and the vehicle was totaled.

Driving through the forest requires caution. Large game animals are designed by nature to blend into the trees. The dark brown moose disappears in the timber and cannot be seen until it has emerged. At 65 miles per hour, there may not be enough time to avoid the collision. Dusk through dark is the most difficult time to spot an animal but daylight will not guarantee your safety if the animal makes a dash for the other side of the road.

Those who are vacationing or passing through Island Park should be vigilant. 

Highway 20 bisects a forest with a healthy population of large wildlife. Drive cautiously through the trees and slow down. Dropping your speed by 10 mph will increase your ability to avoid animals and help you arrive at your destination safely.